Les musées de Grenoble

Bonjour tout le monde! I decided to do my blog post on the numerous museums that Grenoble has to offer because a) it’s a great way to get to know the city and b) ashamed as I am to say it, I had yet to visit any until this assignment, even though it’s already half way through the program. If you come here, do as I say and not as I do, and visit one (or all!) earlier in the program. It was a really rewarding experience and I regret not taking advantage of the opportunity sooner, especially since we don’t have easy access to such a plethora of museums back home in Athens.

The first thing I will mention is that if you decide to visit a museum on Tuesday, you will be limited to two of the 10 departmental museums Grenoble has to offer, as the other 8 are all closed on this day of the week. No matter though, because your options are the Musée de la Résistance (dedicated to Grenoble’s specific history concerning the resistance movement during the French Occupation of WWII) and the Musée de l’Ancien Évêché, which is where I chose to do my visit for this blog.

In case you aren’t up on your religious French vocabulary (I wasn’t), this name roughly translates to “Museum of the Old Diocese”. I also found a translation that said “Old Bishop’s Palace” which I think is more fun to say and gives a clearer description of what this site actually was in layman’s terms, but I digress! The museum was built atop the ruins of an ancient cathedral complex dating back to Roman-occupied Gaul in the 9^th century. I was interested to learn that these ruins were discovered in the late 80’s, when the city was excavating for a new tramway. In the bottom level of the museum, you will find the remains of an old baptistery as well as displays of artifacts from the time period that were found at the site. At the back of this level is the main attraction: the remains of the baptismal pool that was actually used about a thousand years ago. Even the ancient pipe system that was used to feed the pool has been excavated and put on display. The layout of this part of the museum makes it very easy to go on a self-guided tour, as there are many guideposts that explain both what you are looking at as well as its historical significance in terms of its cultural context at the time. Even though there were, again, some religious vocab words that I wasn’t familiar with, I was still able to get the gist of what was I was reading (there were pictures, too. That’s always helpful). This would be an easy way for students of most language levels to get an interesting history lesson on Grenoble outside of the classroom.

After the baptistery, I went up to the first floor of the museum which starts a several stories tall introduction to the history of the department of Isère, starting in the Stone Age and extending onwards through time. I was short on time so I only got to explore the Stone Age area, but this was by far my favorite part of my visit to the museum. On display are artifacts found throughout the department, including tools, decorative objects and even the oldest human remains found in region. This takes the form of a partial human skull that archeologists have named “Alexandre”. The skull was found in 1983 in a cave (la grotte Joëlle) and is roughly 11,000 years old. Carbon dating has revealed that Alexandre was approximately 50 years old at the time of his death and measured 1.6 meters tall. Another one of my favorite pieces that I saw in this exhibit was a partially intact bone object with an engraving of a horse’s head on its surface. I am obsessed with the prehistoric cave paintings that have been found in France (I’m going to visit the Lascaux cave exhibit during spring vacation), and the style of this horse was completely reminiscent of the art that can be found at those sites.

These last two objects really drove home for me how much I appreciate the antiquity that you can discover in France and throughout Europe in general. While America certainly isn’t short on sites of historical significance, by virtue of being a relatively young country, we simply don’t have access to such profound links to our ancient past. There’s something spiritual about seeing something that old with tangible traces of humanity that I haven’t quite figured out how to articulate. Suffice it to say that this wasn’t a visit I will soon forget. 

Helpful tip: The Maison du Tourisme in the centre-ville of Grenoble has a really helpful pamphlet that includes the names, addresses, hours and a brief description of all ten of the departmental museums. It makes things so easy!

-Erin

Living with a host family

After nearly living in Grenoble, France for a month and a half, I must admit that I have learned more than I could ever imagine in such a short period of time. We all have been there, through the doubts, tears, adrenaline, ups and downs, frustration, homesickness, and the culture shock of living with a new family. For me, living with a French family has been one of the greatest learning experiences of my life. There are a great deal of differences within the family’s routines, culture, traditions, and lifestyle than my family back in Ohio. Even with our differences, when I take a step back and look at the big picture, we all aren’t as different as we thought.

Currently, I’m living with the Exterier family and we’re like three peas in a pod. I couldn’t be any more blessed and thankful for receiving such a wonderful, caring and generous family. In all reality, there isn’t a lot of severe or shocking differences to me, in comparison with my family back in Ohio. Personally, it’s the little things that make the biggest differences in a positive way. For example, before dinner the table is always set in a very particular manner. Who would ever think that it matted if a fork was facing down or facing up? Before I came to France, I didn’t even know that there was an up or a down side of a fork. Here it does matter. As my family explained it, the French place the fork on the left side of the plate with the prongs facing the table. Whereas the English leave the prongs facing towards the ceiling. Back in Ohio, in my family, nobody really cares if your fork is right side up, upside down, sideways, or missing. As long as everyone has a warm meal we’re all happy. It isn’t often that my family sets the table and actually takes the time to eat together. The majority of the time we eat in separate rooms, at different times, the living room or not at all.

Another difference that really stood out to me is the fact that my family here, in France, always takes the time to live, love, and enjoy life. No matter how busy or tired they are, they always find something to cherish or to be optimistic about for the day. I know back at home families, and even myself, are guilty for getting wrapped up in their own problems, life, studies and worries to not take the time to profit from the beautiful weather, a rewarding exam grade, a conversation with an old friend or even family. Ten or twenty minutes out of the day really isn’t that hard to simply take the time to enjoy, profit and appreciate life. Here is a simple example, within the Exertier family, naps are essential and good for your health. Where back at home, we felt as if they were a waste of daylight.

I really have opened up my eyes to what my family and I take for granted at times. In France, showers are short, laundry tends to be air dried, underwear is strung across the house, wine and cheese every night, bread with every meal, fruit peeled with knifes, conversation hour after dinner, electricity isn’t cheap and a whole lot more that I’m waiting to discover. Some things are difficult, positive, or hard to accept, but with an open mind nothing isn’t impossible to adapt to.

As for similarities, both of my families love to spend quality time with each other. Whether it’s watching television, chatting over a cup of tea or going to the grocery store together. The concept of family is extremely important to the Exertier family and my family as well. They both love to joke around and tease each other about one thing or another. My host father is just like my step dad, a hardworking man who loves to come home to his family. Any spare time that he has, he spends puttering around the house or taking a ride on his motorcycle. Same exact concept with my mom and host mom. They both are loving mothers who are always there for their kids as nurses, therapists and babysitters. Whatever they put their mind to, they accomplish. Whether it’s sewing, painting, knitting or gardening its phenomenal. Some days it’s a bit creepy how similar my family and the Exertier family are.

Exertier family has filled my life with so many wonderful learning experiences, knowledge, language development and memories. Most of all, they have stolen my heart. Within such a short amount of time, they have become my very own family away from Ohio. As much as I want to be a part of their life they want to be a part of mine. I have already faced the reality that it’s going to break by heart to leave them, but I know someday soon I’ll see them again. When I return to the states I hope that I can incorporate some of my own daily routines, which I’ve adopted from the Exertier family, for example, actually having dinner together, healthier cuisine, naps and taking time to enjoy the little things in life.

-Klaryssa

The Crêperie Experience

I have had such a great experience with the cuisine in France thus far in my study abroad journey.  Grenoble offers a wide array of places to indulge your taste buds, such as cool little cafés, upscale restaurants, or even food carts with different French specialties.  When in my hometown in Ohio, there is not much variety of food and ambiance, unless you do a little driving out of town.  Living in Grenoble is a lot different because so many places are within walking distance or a short ride via the tram.

One fun experience I have had with the food culture in Grenoble was at a local restaurant known for crepes.  On a quaint little street in the center of town, we found an eatery called the “Marin Marine Crêperie” close to when we first had arrived in Grenoble.  We got to our table and started talking and laughing, but noticed we were being rather loud in the restaurant.  A big difference from eating in French restaurants versus American ones is that French restaurants are reserved for a quieter and more relaxed setting.  It was definitely hard to keep a softer voice while conversing and eating! 

We finally got our crepes and they looked delicious!  I couldn’t believe how intricately these specialties were made and that it didn’t take long for the chef to prepare them.  I was reminded of home in this restaurant because I always love being in my hometown and going to restaurants with great food and fast service.  I decided to get a crepe with pears, walnuts, and chocolate drizzle, since I love chocolate.  Crepes can be filled with many things, such as fruits, meats, nuts, or other sweets.

Having been in France for over a week, we knew the process of paying the check.  Between talking and finishing up our food, it took us a little while to pay for our own portion of the bill, since in France, there is no such thing as having separate checks.  Having everyone throw and exchange money around the table is considered normal, so we had fun doing that.  I also remember us resisting the urge to tip our waiter because they do not tip in restaurants in France, unlike America.  This place was a lot like home as well because of the great and friendly service that was given to us, especially because the staff knew we were foreigners.

The French food experience is one to take in at a good pace because of the food, ambiance, and friendship.  I have learned eating in France is more of an art and a way of life that is integrated into the culture.  I plan to become a regular at the Marin Marine Crêperie because of the great times and memories it has given me during my stay in France.

-Adam